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A full moon over Edwina Sandys and Richard Kaplan's house in Palm Beach.
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Palm Beach weekend. I am not an aficionado of Florida per se; probably because I have lived for several years in Southern California with its alluringly arid climate and subsequent lack of humidity (which is now changing along with everything else climactically). Florida with its lush tropical weather can get oppressively humid when it’s warm, and that’s not uncommon. That said, coming from very cold New York last Thursday morning to tropical Palm Beach with its balmy breezes, its blue or grey/indigo cloudy skies, and even its humidity, the weather was great!
Thirty years ago Palm Beach was a sleepy little seaside residential resort of the American rich, as well as year round refuge for its reprobates and aging-but-still hankering heiresses. Across the waterway lay its labor-intense satellite town of West Palm, once home to those who served the folks in Oz just across the bridge.
Today Palm Beach is a burgeoning metropolis (figuratively speaking because the island itself remains a refuge for the moneyed classes). Its airport, located in even more burgeoning West Palm Beach, is called the Palm Beach International Airport. Because it is. International. That’s what makes this enclave of world financial power and interest different from all the rest of the resorts where the rich go to rest, etcetera. Think of it: there is no Newport International Airport, or Palm Springs, or Aspen or Martha’s Vineyard of the Hamptons. Or anyplace else. Only in Palm Beach.
Coming in on the handy-dandy short drive in from the airport, West Palm is teeming with those giraffe-like tall construction cranes grazing and lolling over rising slabs of reinforced concrete flooring and columns or bricked up or blocked up luxury towers of housing and commerce. An area once the dominion of the worn and weary of the “service” community for the isle across the intercoastal, it is now a place where the Starbucks in City Place on a Sunday morning is crowded with twenty- and thirty-something professionals, year-round denizens of West Palm.
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West Palm Beach under construction
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We were there for the opening of the Palm Beach International Fine Art & Antique Fair.
We were guests of Beth DeWoody (a major collector of contemporary art and traveling during the time of this fair) at her compound in West Palm. The days flew by between lunch and dinner and photographing the Fair, and driving here and there. Friday night after drinks with Quest publisher Chris Meigher and his wife Grace along with Steve Millington and Michael McCarty (of the restaurant), we moved on to a cocktail party Edwina Sandys and Richard Kaplan were giving for society photographer Patrick McMullan who was in town for the Fair and for Arnold Scaasi and Parker Ladd’s book panel on Friday morning at the Brazilian Court.
Friday night, or a day after the annual Vernissage opening is usually the cocktail reception at the gallery-apartment of Lars Bolander and Natalie Kalachnikoff on Worth Avenue, drawing a large and eclectic (for Palm Beach anyway) crowd, many of whom are in town for the fair. This year, however, much to the disappointment of the season residents and visiting dignitaries, the Bolanders did not provide their standard charming fare. Because they are moving, evoking moans of disappointment from the hordes who love to visit their fabulous Mizner designed apartment.
Edwina Sandys’ art pieces and painting decorate their bungalow and poolside on Seminole, part of the first property that was designed and built by Addison Mizner in the 1920s. The Sandys-Kaplan parties are equally festive and energetic as Sandys’ art.
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Edwina Sandys, Patrick McMullan, and Ellen Graham
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Alexandra Kotur, Dale Coudert, and Sheila Kotur
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Dr. Richard Kaplan and Edwina Sandys
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A section of the pool and back yard
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Sharon Sondes and Geoffrey Thomas
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From there it was dinner at Café Boulud where there were quite a few New Yorkers including the aforementioned McCarty and Millington dining also.
Saturday at noon we went over to the Oceanside grand palazzo of Terry Kramer and Nick Simunek for lunch. Again meeting up with Millington and McCarty, as well as Sotheby’s Christina Floyd and recording artist Jamie Jo Harris. |
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Above: Nick Simunek, Christina Floyd, DPC, Michael McCarty, Terry Allen Kramer, Steve Millington, and JAmie Jo Harris.
Left: American (for Terry) and British (for Nick) flags fly high on their property.
Below: Terry with Bongo. |
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To even the non-collecting tourist, such as this writer, Palm Beach: America’s International Fine Art & Antique Fair had all kinds of fascinating treasure. For example ...
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At the booth of Derek Johns of Mount Street is a portrait by Benjamin West of Peter Beckford (1672/3 – 1735) wearing van Dyck dress, holding a map showing the area of sugar plantations in Jamaica owned by Beckford.
Benjamin West was an American, a close friend of Benjamin Franklin, whose portrait he painted. In 1763, West moved to England, where he was commissioned by King George III to create portraits of members of the royal family. He painted King George twice.
In 1772, the King appointed him historical painter to the court at an annual fee of £1,000. West became friends with the English portraitist Sir Joshua Reynolds and founded the Royal Academy of Arts with Reynolds in 1768.
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Peter Beckford was the biggest sugar plantation owner in Jamaica in the early 18th century. At the time of his death in 1735 he was said to be in possession of the largest property real and personal of any man or woman in Europe.
Beckford’s grandson William Beckford lived between 1760 and 1844. By the time he inherited the estate it had grown substantially and so he was the wealthiest man in England – a fortune built on the back of hundreds of Jamaican slaves.
William Beckford used his fortune to collect art and to live like the ultimate hedonist, making him one of the most famous (and eventually notorious) men in England. He was highly educated learned in French, Latin, Greek, Itealian, Spanish, Portugese, philosophy, law, literature and physics, all by age 17. His piano teacher was a man named Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart.
In 1795 he began abuilding Fonthill Abbey in Wiltshire, a Gothic monstrosity with a tower 300 feet high. 500 labors worked day and night. The first tower, badly designed, collapsed upon completion. So did the second, built six years later. The third tower was finished seven years later and the entire building was finished in 1813. His kitchens prepared food for 12 everyday although he always dined alone and sent the other meals away afterwards. Only once did he have houseguests when Admiral Horatio Nelson and Lady Hamilton visited.
A great part of his fortune went to the building of the Abbey which he was forced to sell in 1823 for $5 million. Although in middle years onward he kept a harem of young men to entertain and be entertained. He had been married. His wife died at childbirth leaving him his only child Susan Euphemia who married Alexander, 10thDuke of Hamilton. A descendant, a few generations afterwards was Prince Rainier of Monaco. |
The booth (above, left) of the JGM Galerie (29, rue du Temple, Paris) had some beautiful pieces including a bronze alligator settee by Claude Lalanne. Many NYSD readers (along with DPC and JH) first saw Claude Lalanne’s work in the Paris apartment of Count and Countess Hubert D’Ornano last September when we were covering the Biennale Antiquaire. On another wall was a work by Rob Wynne. This artist’s work was first seen to some NYSD readers last year when we photographed a bedroom of the house of our hostess (last year and this), Beth DeWoody (above, right).
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| Benjamin and Bernard Steinitz in their exhibition booth. |
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Above, left: A copy of the famous official portrait of Queen Marie-Antoinette of France and her children, painted for Louis-Philippe, the last reigning King of France (1830-1848) at the booth of Steinitz of Paris.
Above, right: Then over at the special exhibition of the history of French style and decoration in the 18th century, there is another official portrait of the ill-fated queen by Elisabeth Vigee-LeBrun completed in 1788, one year before the Revolution and imprisonment of the King and Queen.
Although she lived in a time when women were not regarded seriously in the arts, Vigee-LeBrun was considered one of the most important portraitists. Her commissions covered the royal houses of Europe, as well as Catherine the Great (at whose deathbed she was present) and Madame DuBarry at Marly after the death of Louis XV. Over ten feet high, the portrait is considered the artist’s masterpiece and one of the finest 18th century royal portraits. It is on loan to the exhibition at the Fair from the New Orleans Museum of Art.
Coincidentally, there lives in Palm Beach and Southampton, a woman named LeBrun Rhinelander McKnight, (Brunie to her many friends). She is the fourth or fifth generation of first born women in her family to bear that name, directly handed down from the portraitist. |
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Set by the Vigee-LeBrun portrait of Marie-Antoinette are two chairs made for the queen for her private apartments at the Tuillieries and delivered in 1784. The chairs are in their original condition and the fabric is an exact copy of the original fabric. The chairs were lent to the exhibition by the House of Kraemer in Paris.
Michaele Kraemer (above), a fourth generation of the family, was present as a guide at the exhibition. The price of the chairs was not revealed to us since we are not interested buyers. Interested but not buyers, that is. |
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“I’ve heard of affairs
that are strictly platonic,
but diamonds are a girl’s best friend.
And I think affairs
That you must keep laconic
Are better bets
If little pets get big baguettes.
”Robin/Styne, “Diamonds are a Girl’s Best Friend”
And there you have it. At the House of Graff they are doing the biggest diamond business in the seven figure price range. In the world. Said to be bigger than all their competitors combined. Graff controls 65% of the canary yellow diamonds. |
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The Graff diamonds are nothing short of stupendous to these astounded eyes. I asked Henri Barguirdjian, who heads Graff USA to show us one of his pink diamonds. A ring. In the eight figures. I asked him to show us another piece in that price range: the diamond necklace. The Graff windows on Madison Avenue are one of the most popular pedestrian stops. You stop to look just to be amazed at the size and the beauty. And the message. |
At Steingrad we were intrigued by the Elizabethan couple holding hands. Tudor actually, it turned out. They were painted in 1620 and it was probably a portrait of a betrothal. Furthermore, the Hand Holding was never in a portrait of that era and so this one was very rare, Even wild and woolly to some sensibilities, not to mention the 21st century.
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Jewels, precious gems are an important part of this Palm Beach Fair. I remember the first time I heard about the Fair several years ago, before I visited, people were talking about the fabulous jewels for sale. On our tour we passed by Moussieff Jewelers who had an amazing pink diamond in one of its cases. The price: in the millions. Jewels, big jewels are a hot item these days. A couple of cases over was a very fancy diamond and emerald necklace with one very large emerald. Very grand, watch-out-world-here-I-come (and I ain’t kidding). It once belonged to Mrs. Irving Berlin whose husband’s first big hit song was “Always,” (“I’ll be loving you, Always”), said to have been written for her.
There was also an emerald and diamond brooch (above, right) which once belonged to Queen Margherita of Savoy-Genoa (1851-1926). One thing you often hear about at these very high end art and antique fairs is: The Prices. The prices, the prices, have you seen the prices….? They ask each other over cocktails. But then they come along a day or three later and write out a check for five, six million for an item, picture, a piece of furniture, a necklace. The Russians are often mentioned as the “buyers” in the same way the Arab sheiks were twenty-five years ago. One salesperson told me that Moscow now has more billionaires than New York, and when they shop the world’s their favorite mall. |
| Over at the Galerie Terminus (of Munich) booth was an amazing John Chamberlain metal sculpture made entirely from pieces of junked cars. The enormous object, about five or six feet high with the circumference of a large oak, was resting on a platform but the gentleman at the booth told us that looked especially stupendous (my word, not his) when hung. |
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| It is so complex in construction and yet so graceful that it is impossible to look at without feeling compelled to stay and study it. The price: $1.6. Million, that is. It already had a buyer when we asked (first day of the show). In fact, it had two, one waiting to see what the first one would do. It could have had three if I had that kind of money. |
| I love autographs and personal papers. At 19th Century Shop (from Baltimore, and in New York), we saw the second only extant map of the western hemisphere when it was named America by Amerigo Vespucci. Had it not been for him, it might have been given the name of this writer, or vice-versa (haha). This map is the only one in private hands. Then we saw a frame ink drawing by Charles Darwin. |
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| It was contained in a letter written to a lord illustrating how he’d seen these birds with wings which they did not use and how that led him to his observations about evolution. I was very moved by his information about drawings. I’m not sure what it was; perhaps the physical proximity to Greatness in a world of terrible political chaos amongst us humans. The price of the letter and drawings was $100,000. I asked Stephan Loewentheil of the gallery why people collected these things (wondering how my interest might be defined). He said the collectors were usually people of intellect who might have pursued another path (such as banking or business) to make their fortunes and then who turned to collecting these things for the intellectual stimulation. In other words, the thrill of it all. |
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Our hostess Beth DeWoody has a waterside villa filled with fascinating objects of art both inside and out, as well as a few natives such as this one who posed for JH and the Digital |
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A salamander hanging loose.
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Inside and outside Beth's Palm Beach home.
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